Happy September

"Has anyone wished you 'Happy September' yet?" my friend Milo asked the other day. It sounds cheerful and innocuous enough, but the greeting is actually two-pronged.

On one hand, it's an expression of relief that the tourists are finally leaving the island. Tourists -- or "washed-ashores," as the locals call them -- are both a blessing and a burden. Yes, they oftentimes do show up with bulging wallets and a desire to splurge on food, clothing, luxury rentals, etc., which is great news for the merchants. The glitch is so many of them arrive in July and August that the island's narrow roads are quickly overwhelmed, parking spaces become an endangered species and the towns and beaches are overrun by outsiders (not all of whom are particularly well-mannered or respectful). The year-round population of the Vineyard is estimated at around 15,000; in the summer that number swells to 100,000-plus, so you can imagine the strain and get an idea of how happy residents are when the "washed-ashores" finally board the ferries and planes for home.

But "Happy September" is also a bit of gallows humor, too. When the tourists take off, of course, so does the money. I have heard estimates as much as 75 percent of the revenue brought in by local merchants is made in June, July and August. Sure, the locals eat at restaurants and do some shopping, but they don't do it often enough to make up for those missing money-bearers. September spells the end of the island's annual financial windfall.

You can already see the changes in the streets. There are noticeably fewer cars on the roads and in the parking lots. While the sidewalks are still busy, they are not congested in the same way they were a few weeks ago. And then there's the most telling sign of all: Store after store hosting a "50-75% off sale" or advertising "summer clearance" prices.

So, if you're hoping to find bargains on the Vineyard, this is a perfect time to drop in. But don't wait too long -- after the "everything must go" sales, many of these businesses will in fact be shutting down for the rest of the year (or, in some cases, permanently), as the island prepares for its semi-hibernation.